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Thread: Installed valve height

  1. #11
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    Hudson, MA
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcabpilot View Post
    Hope I'm not boring you guys with this stuff but it is kind of quiet around here.
    Nope, not boring us! We're all still here, we just don't post a lot of stuff as many of us talk offline as well as here.
    I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind except that you happen to be insane.
    ― George Orwell, 1984

  2. #12
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    Sep 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by kcabpilot View Post
    Another update: After going through the intake side of the 1-4 head I'm in pretty good shape, they are all within spec and I'll be able to use the shims I have. Looking back at my initial measurements that I took when I first started disassembling the engine I mentioned that all of my exhaust clearances were tight. Radioman said this is normal due to valve recession and to be expected. Just running through the calculations of what shims I would have needed at that time if I were just doing a valve clearance adjustment and had not done any head work I can see that many of them would have needed shims in the 3.75 to 3.80 range which were already under the ideal range before any machine work was done. As it sits now I would need at least two 3.40 shims, the rest (so far) in the 3.55 to 3.75 range. the rim of the bucket averages about 3.00 so a 3.40 shim still sits 15 or 16 thousandths above it as opposed to a 4.00 shim that would sit 40 thousandths proud.
    Valve seat recession is normal, as well as wear on the face of the exhaust valve. But, there are limits. It is rare that I replace valves seats while doing heads. It is common for me to replace valves, particularly exhaust valves. If the "margins" on your exhaust valves are too thin, they will dissipate heat poorly and wear quickly. With that said, You're on the right path. I try to always stay above 3.75 mm and below 4.25 mm. Yes, this is tedious work. But, when it's right, it's right!
    Sarasota Italian Garage, LLC
    "The Fluent in Ferrari Guys" celebrating 37 years of service excellence
    **An independent facility with no affiliation with Ferrari SpA**
    Sarasota, FL
    www.fluentinferrari.com

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    I got sidetracked onto an entirely different project but I've still been plugging away at this and I'm going to get back on it and wrap it up. I did all of the measurements and it looks like all of my exhaust valves need to be trimmed about 15-20 thousandths so I'm hoping to get them down to the shop this week.

    I also decided to replace the outer cam drive bearings because a friend of mine did a major engine out service a few years ago only to have one fail on him after he put it back in. They feel fine but I see that Ferrari upped the size at some point and I've got the smaller 40 mm ones so probably a good idea to renew them. I bought the Sealey tool for about 60 bucks and it worked fine.

    Problem is after I got done I noticed this "extra" part that I guess was stuck to the back of the right side bearing when I pulled it out. I think it's item 38 on the #8 parts diagram and it's listed as a "washer" It is a spring steel washer so looks like I'm going to have to pull the right bearing out again, which means destroying it. Although a thought occurred to me - would it serve the same purpose if I just put it between the bearing and the outer snap ring?
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    Last edited by kcabpilot; 11-26-2018 at 02:12 AM.

  4. #14
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    It really shouldn't make any difference which side of the bearing the spring washer is placed. Its purpose to merely to prevent the bearing from walking in the case.

  5. #15
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    Jun 2007
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    Massachusetts
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    I have nothing exciting to add except, yes it is quiet, so I'm glad somebody is working on their car and posting pictures! Also, those bearing puller tools are COOL. I want one!
    Birdman308 for parts and tutorials!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Birdman View Post
    those bearing puller tools are COOL. I want one!
    ... but you don't want to need one

  7. #17
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    Mar 2018
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    Okay I tried it out and that spring washer fits just fine under the outer snap ring, just needed to put a dab of grease to hold it in place so it wouldn’t drop into the groove as I installed the ring. So I’m going to leave it like that but I wanted people to know about it because it’s not even mentioned in any of the online threads about replacing these bearings and easy to miss. When I first noticed it I thought maybe it was part of the seal and cage you have to rip out of the old bearing in order to pull it but on closer look I saw it was the same diameter as the bearing and couldn’t be anything like that. Anyway it’s secure in there and not going anywhere so I’m sure it’s fine even though one day in the distant future a new owner will take it apart and go WTF? Look at what some hacker did!

  8. #18
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    Mar 2018
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    The reason I ended up here was due to a leaking head gasket at #4 cylinder.



    So one of the things I wanted to pay particular attention to was the liner protrusion
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  9. #19
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    A little late in the game to be dealing with liner projection...Improper head torque or re-torque is typically the cause for premature failure.
    Sarasota Italian Garage, LLC
    "The Fluent in Ferrari Guys" celebrating 37 years of service excellence
    **An independent facility with no affiliation with Ferrari SpA**
    Sarasota, FL
    www.fluentinferrari.com

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    It was just something I wanted to verify. I'm used to the Alfas where liner protrusion is something obvious whereas on the Ferrari it's something that's barely perceptible.

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