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Thread: mysterious rattle

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2013


    Several ways to approach getting the front bank sniffer tubes off.

    1. If you are not going to re-install the sniffer tubes you can simply cut the tube where they connect to the header and then work on removing the nut once the headers are out. Major disadvantage is the tubes are destroyed.

    2. The sampling end of the tubes connect to the side of the engine with a bracket and one bolt. All four of the tubes are brazed onto the bracket. You can unbolt the bracket and attempt to bend the tubes around the engine, although there is good chance you will break/crack the tubes. Alternately, you can try to move the header over toward the driver's side and that may give you more clearance to slide the four header tubes around the engine. If the works, just leave the tubes on the header and remove engine.

    3. The last and most obvious is to try to loosen the nuts that hold the tubes to the header. Its going to be harder with the header disconnected because it will flop around. Maybe re-attach it with two nuts to secure it. Getting to those nuts is best accomplished from under the car. The nuts are probably rusted so Kroil or PB Blaster is needed ahead of time.

    Removing the front header.

    The front header will be disconnected from the exhaust pipe and then the header will come out before the engine is removed. I don't think the front header sniffer tubes will interfere with the header removal because they are so short.

    Once you get the nuts off the sniffer tubes and clean up the threads, you can just plug the hole. Verell, at sell nice brass plugs.

    Ceramic Coating

    My headers had all of the covering removed when I ceramic coated them. I had them coated black.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2014


    Thanks for the tips Fireman.

    I am still struggling to get the exhaust disconnected, but I am making some progress. Once I get the rear header out and the front header disconnected and laying on the frame I think everything else should go smoothly. I painted all the nuts and bolts with 50% acetone/ 50% atf; hopefully that will help with some of the more stubborn ones.

    Birdman's tutorial calls for removing the carbs; I noticed in your picture (page 3) that your carbs are still on. Is it possible to leave them on? The carbs are not difficult to service at a later time if they start to act up, so if I can keep them on I may want to do just that.

    I am still trying to decide just how far I want to take the engine apart. The kid in me wants to take the heads off and find an excuse to rebuild it, maybe add a couple horsies; but except for the cam belt drive gear bearings the car has really been running great. What I really want is for the car to run as it has been.

    These are the results of compression and leak-down tests on a cold engine. (I wasn't comfortable running the engine to warm it up with the drive gear wobbling as bad as it was). Sorry I couldn't properly format the chart.

    1....165....200.....72.....4 %.....INTAKE
    2....180....190.....74.....1 %.....INTAKE
    3....165....190.....74.....1 %.....INTAKE
    4....165....180.....73.....3 %.....INTAKE
    5....185....200.....74.....1 %.....could not detect
    6....165....190.....69..... 8 %.....could not detect
    7....170....190.....74......1 %.....could not detect
    8....170....195.....73.5...2 %.....could not detect

    Opinions & comments please

    My hearing isn't the best, but I was surprised that I couldn't hear anything on cylinder 6. I suspect exhaust because that would be the most difficult for me to hear. I was right over the carbs while doing the leak down, and I had funnel at the dip stick, so I could hear those (nothing from the dip stick). I'll check valve clearances before I fret too much over cyl 6, but I am interested in everyone's comments/ opinions.

    Also what do you all think about having oil analyzed?

    I am thinking of getting a pallet to put the lump on to separate the transmission from the engine. a friend has a cherry picker, and an engine mount for me to borrow when the time comes.

    I've never worked on an engine on a stand before. Wouldn't it make things easier if I loosened the drive gear ring nuts and pulled the dampener while the engine is still in the car?

    any and all comments and suggestions will be very much appreciated.

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2014


    Quote Originally Posted by Jwtlag View Post
    Thanks for the tips Fireman.

    I am still struggling to get the exhaust disconnected, but I am making some progress. Once I get the rear header out and the front header disconnected and laying on the frame I think everything else should go smoothly.
    ...I think everything else should go smoothly what was I thinking? go smoothly.

    I am really struggling with one nut on the front bank exhaust (right over the starter), and a couple on the rear bank that are blocked by a rail I think was connected to the emissions pump. The pump froze long ago and the mechanic just plugged it up (the rail is also broken (see picture) I'm thinking of just cutting the rail as indicated in the picture to give me access to those 2 nuts. Is there any reason not to just cut it out?
    Attached Images Attached Images

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