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Thread: 308 Front Header Removal

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    498

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    A few thoughts:

    If you are going to include the section on putting the motor back in, the torque specs are helpful.

    Regarding the rear bank, motor stabilizer or tie rod ("dog bone") the silent blocks need to be checked for cracks. (Difficult to get out as a full strength press is required)

    The exact position and orientation of the spacers under the motor mounts should be included. They are different front to back and can be confusing as to the orientation (top and bottom). I found a lot of misinformation about the exact fit before I finally got it right, even though I made notes beforehand.

    Suggestions about a motor stand or dolly with casters can be helpful.

    Suggestions about the strap used. I bought one from Harbor Freight which fit very nicely. Also, detailed instructions about the strap routing-over, under, through, around etc.

    I think the website is picking up steam. Many new people seen to be gravitating toward it. Having "How To" articles goes hand in hand with the website title. I've been thinking about starting one on restoration tools and techniques for the home mechanic. After three years of studying diagrams, reading procedures, talking to experienced people, dismantling, categorizing, organizing parts, cleaning, painting, and assembling the car, I definitely gained a few pointers along the way. Its good to pass info to others so they don't make rookie mistakes and can start projects with a plan and good practices. Also, realistic budget estimates.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    13,366

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    Yo Fireman, did you take any pictures of the motor mount orientation?
    Birdman308 for parts and tutorials!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    In the big house
    Posts
    7,084

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    Tip 1: Get a professional prepurchase inspection (PPI) by someone who actually works on what you're contemplation purchasing.
    Last edited by Radioman; 12-13-2014 at 03:53 PM.
    Sarasota Italian Garage, LLC
    "The Fluent in Ferrari Guys" celebrating 37 years of service excellence
    **An independent facility with no affiliation with Ferrari SpA**
    Sarasota, FL
    www.fluentinferrari.com

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    498

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    I didn't take any, but I did take notes.

    I can try to take some from my car now. I will have to put it on the lift and check to see if I can get a clear shot.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,150

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    Here is how mine came out, and how it went back in a few months later. That was a busy 12 weeks.

    I think I remember having to pull the bell housing before it would go back in (unlike the picture) with the front header attached.

    DSCF0034.jpg

    DSCF0016.jpg

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Saint John, NB Canada
    Posts
    14

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    Gents....about to pull my motor in about a week. Have access to two hoists. One ton not even close. Two ton gets closer to the sling but about 3" short to the sling loop. I didn't see a comment on hoist capacity and reach in the writeup. So right now, I have a 2T hoist extended to a 1/2T capacity with a clearance from the cylinder piston pump to the hook center of 45". The pump just clears the back bumper. I can make the sling reach the hook but it will not be lifting vertical. It will be at a slight angle. If this is the norm, then I am good to go. Appreciate comments.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Saint John, NB Canada
    Posts
    14

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    Follow up on this question. Thought I would post my findings on my motor pull earlier today. Thanks to Birdmans writeup and David's sling method, the lift went perfect with no issues. Thanks again guys! However, getting rigged up with the proper hoist was not the easiest discovery as I could not find any info on what to use.

    I bought a 2 Ton engine crane from Princess Auto for CAN $229.00. At the 1/2T or max extension setting, I was still 12" short of the proper position to allow the sling to be engaged perfectly vertical, which I see as critical to get the motor lift started properly. To correct this I bought a 48" length of HSS 2" x 2" x 0.125 wall tubing which slid inside the extension boom and was drilled for the boom securing bolt and the relocated 3/4T capacity swivel hook. This allowed me to achieve the proper hook position for the pick with sufficient clearance behind the car between the piston and the bumper to allow the car to be moved forward slightly during the lift. The rear tires had a 2x6 plus a 3/4" plywood spacer under them for the lift legs to slide under the roll bar drop links. For reference:

    Overall length of boom in 1/2T (max) extension to center of hook - unmodified: 60". This will not work.
    Overall length of boom in 1/2T (max) extension to center of hook - modified: 72". This works perfectly.
    Center of cylinder pivot to center of hook: 57". This allows a pick with room clear to the rear of the car.
    Sling: 1" double loop - 2500 lbs capacity choked. Can $20.00.

    Hope this helps anyone looking to clarify what hoisting equipment they might need. Princess Auto and Harbour Freight offer pretty much the same stuff at a reasonable price. I would double check the boom extension is over 2" inside dimension to allow the HSS 2x2 to slip inside. Just to note: This is a modification to the crane design. I chose to do this after careful consideration. You may not. I had no issues at all.

    Pics can be found here:

    https://1drv.ms/f/s!AnVdu69PMb3AjEbGE3ybVKdXCVrb

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